Wednesday, 3 December 2025

On-Ground Report from Kyiv and Lviv, Ukraine During the War


 The post provides a firsthand account of the situation in Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine, and later in Lviv amid ongoing conflict with Russia. The narrator shares observations on daily life, infrastructure, war impacts, local defense, language tensions, and personal experiences traveling by train and exploring the cities. The tone mixes realism with cautious optimism about resilience despite war.


Key Highlights and Observations

  • Current Situation in Kyiv:
    • Kyiv’s city center and major infrastructure (hotels, metro, restaurants, fast food chains like KFC and McDonald’s) are operational and largely intact.
    • Internet, mobile data, and payment systems (card tap) are functioning normally with high speeds, contrary to expectations.
    • Underground metro stations serve as deep bunkers/shelters, originally designed during Soviet times to withstand nuclear attacks.
    • Power supply is stable; no major outages during the visit.
    • The city is divided geographically by a river, restricting ground movement of Russian forces; river acts as a natural barrier.
    • Metro and train services connecting Kyiv to other cities like Kharkiv and Dnipro are running regularly.

  • War Impact and Defense:
    • Kyiv was attacked on the first day of the war, including air raids with fighter jets. Ukraine destroyed its own airport runway to prevent Russian landings.
    • Surrounding outskirts and small villages have suffered more bombing and damage than the city center.
    • Ukrainian air defense systems (Patriot and NASAMS) are effective in intercepting missiles.
    • Large monuments and parks honor war martyrs; numerous flags and photos commemorate fallen soldiers.
    • Many young men are conscripted and fighting; disproportionately more women are seen in public spaces due to men being at war or restricted from leaving.
    • Recovery and daily life continue despite the war; shops, restaurants, and public transport are active.
    • Russian military equipment, including tanks and destroyed vehicles, are displayed publicly for morale and propaganda in Kyiv.
    • Russian forces have not been able to infiltrate deeply into Kyiv due to natural barriers and strong defense.

  • Social and Language Dynamics:
    • Ukrainian society shows strong patriotism and unity despite linguistic diversity.
    • Historically, many in Ukraine, especially in the east, spoke Russian; however, the war has intensified anti-Russian sentiment.
    • Ukrainian authorities and people have moved to eliminate the use of the Russian language publicly.
    • Language and identity have become key elements in the conflict, reflecting deeper political and cultural divides.

  • Historical and Political Context:
    • The war roots trace back to Ukraine’s desire to join NATO and the EU, which Russia opposes.
    • Ukraine became a partner of NATO in 1993 but was not a full member.
    • In 2013, Ukraine’s pro-Russian president rejected an EU association agreement under Russian pressure, provoking public protests and his eventual overthrow.
    • Russia annexed Crimea in 2014 and has supported separatist movements in eastern Ukraine.
    • Ukraine’s strategic position as Europe’s largest country wholly in Europe influences its geopolitical importance.
    • Neighboring countries mostly aligned with EU/NATO, but Ukraine remains contested.
  • Travel and Personal Experience:
    • The narrator traveled from Odesa to Kyiv by train, stayed near the metro/train station, and explored the city on foot.
    • Visited landmarks such as Independence Square, St. Michael’s Golden Dome Church, and metro stations.
    • Noted the presence of Indian restaurants filled with Ukrainians, signaling normalcy in daily social life.
    • Later traveled from Kyiv to Lviv by train, observing lively crowds and vibrant city life in Lviv.
    • Lviv appeared more crowded and active compared to the quieter Kyiv station.

Timeline of Key Events/Observations

Timeframe/Day Event/Observation

Arrival Day Traveled by train from Odesa to Kyiv, checked into hotel near train and metro station

Day in Kyiv Explored city, visited metro shelters, Independence Square, Indian restaurant, and war memorials

During Visit Noted functioning fast food chains, internet, power, metro, and trains running regularly

Later Day Traveled from Kyiv to Lviv by train, observed vibrant city life and busy train station

Historical Context War escalation traced from 2013 EU agreement refusal, 2014 Crimea annexation, 2022 NATO tensions

Infrastructure & Services Status

Service/Facility Status

Internet and Mobile Data Fully operational, high-speed Wi-Fi and data

Fast Food Chains KFC and McDonald’s operational

Metro Stations Fully functional, serve as deep bunkers

Power Supply Stable, no significant outages

Train Services Running regularly to/from Kyiv, Kharkiv, Dnipro

Payment Systems Card tap payments widely accepted

Indian Restaurants Open and busy, mostly served by locals

Defense & Military Insights

Aspect                                      Details

Air Defense Systems Patriot and NASAMS active and effective

Russian Attacks Early air attacks on Kyiv; ground infiltration limited by river

War Damage Concentrated in outskirts and smaller towns; city center largely intact

Military Equipment Display Destroyed Russian tanks and vehicles displayed publicly

Soldier Demographics Majority young men conscripted or fighting, women prevalent in public spaces

Language and Cultural Notes

  • Ukrainian language increasingly enforced; Russian language usage discouraged post-war outbreak.
  • Eastern Ukraine historically Russian-speaking; strong shift toward Ukrainian identity and language.
  • Language conflict reflects broader political and cultural tensions between Ukraine and Russia.
  • Educational courses and daily communication shifting to Ukrainian exclusively.

Conclusions and Key Insights

  • Despite ongoing war, Kyiv’s core infrastructure, public services, and daily life continue with surprising normalcy and resilience.
  • Metro stations double as effective bomb shelters, highlighting Soviet-era preparedness.
  • War has deeply affected social fabric, with many men conscripted and a visible demographic shift toward women in public.
  • Language and identity have become critical battlegrounds alongside the physical conflict.
  • Ukraine’s geopolitical struggle centers on its alignment with Europe versus Russian influence, fueling the war’s origins and continuation.
  • Local defense systems and natural geographic barriers have effectively limited Russian ground incursions into Kyiv.
  • Public displays of destroyed Russian military equipment serve as morale boosters and symbols of resistance.

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